Siberian sunrise

Welcome to Siberia, the largest region of the largest country in the world, distinguished by its large emptiness.

10am, yawn.

Here, somewhere near the city of Tyumen, the sun rises at 10am, which is about right for me. It hangs out till around 6pm, which is reasonable in my opinion.

Sunrise over a snow covered marsh and a birch forest.

Its morning rays seem thinly spread over, what Andrew Marr would probably call such vast vast vastness. Or Brian Cox would call such wonderous wonder.

Some Moscow architecture

Unsurprisingly Moscow is full of buildings and we should all give a high five to the numerous architects who have made such a marvellous metropolis. Here’s one of the seven sisters, carefully captured out of focus for that genuine instagram effect.

One of the seven sisters: instant gramification

And here’s one that George Orwell would be very proud of

The ministry of sarcasm.

The GUM department store on Red Square seems to be inspired both by Crystal Palace and that shopping centre in Leamington Spa – the parades, isn’t it?

Leamington Spaski

And let’s not forget the Kremlin, a magnificent fortress

Slightly more fortified than the Palace of Westminster

which serves to protect all of the onion museums inside, such as Ivan’s terrible bell, pictured below,

Ivan: a terrible bell.

Moscow in motion

Credit to the Moscow Metro, which keeps this metropolis on the go. It’s no nonsense, it’s expansive but not expensive, the map is easy to read, and it just does everything really well. Except that there is a dearth of signs. 

The same can’t be said of Moscow’s roads, which are not themselves to blame – fine roads they are – but there are just too many cars, and everything moves slowly at best. 

The building goes up faster than the traffic moves along.

There’s more to Moscow’s motion than the transport system; there are more ice-rinks than you can shake a stick at, keeping people on the move albeit without actually going anywhere; and there’s also a lot of construction work. You definitely get the feeling that things are happening here; that Moscow is going somewhere. I think that’s what the Guide book means by vibrant, and I have to agree in this case. 

We skated on an ice rink that was huge, outdoors, flood-lit and over-looked by a big Orwellian/Soviet apartment block, with some great large graffiti on the walls. It was colourful and atmospheric and great fun; and it was accompanied by music such as the Backstreet boys.

Oh, go on then

Ok ok, here's the highlights of what is, I have quickly come to realise, the most spectacular capital city in the world. Let's start with this colourful number:

Es are good.

The Beatles' drug use to inspire their creations looks like a mere sugar rush from a snickers when compared to the evident substance abuse that must have been going on when architect Señor Big Cheese drew up the plans for this wondrous onion homage, pictured above. It's really fabulous.

Before I arrived, Moscow confused me. What's with the lack of symmetry? What's with the jumbo building features, and brightly coloured churches? Are they for Children?!

Red square; red chruch.

Well all that disappeared when I arrived in Moscow. Firstly, the buildings, when seen in real life, are actually really charming and seem to make total sense; and secondly the scale and magnificence of the whole Kremlin / Red Square etc. architectural ensemble is so impressive as to wipe away pre-conceptions and leave you totally absorbed by the assembly.

The complex of buildings is actually massive; the walls of the Kremlin are massive; everything's massive. I have learned, in two days in Moscow, that America doesn't have a monopoly on Massiveness. Russia does a mighty fine job too.

Welcome to Moscow

I've left Astana for now and my journey to Russia begins here in Moscow. I hope you'll join me for some of it, perhaps in your tea breaks.

All hail the Onion messiah.

Having survived Air France's cold sweaty salmon, I'm in Moscow for a couple of days; it's blizzardy and slushy and slippy and blingy; and the urban road signs look like they're imported shamelessly from France. You already know what Red Square and the Kremlin look like, so I thought I'd save you that and instead share this shot from the block I'm staying on - an old church (Russian churches believe that onions are the Messiah) and a glossy building; that summarises my first impression of Moscow. Sadly, not a bench in sight.

Astana inspires

The new concert hall

Astana is an architect's playground. Ten years ago the 'left' side of the city was essentially a marsh, and today it hosts an impressive array of new buildings, some beautiful, some tacky, some both.

The city is growing a true sense of character, and it's inspiring stuff. I wish I'd had more time to photograph more buildings, but perhaps the mystery will encourage you to visit!

Champions fried chicken

One of Tashkent's finer moments.